• The huge advancements made over the last 30 years in adhesives has revolutionized the many ways in which some disorders of the equine hoof can be treated.
• Historically any shoe applied to the hoof relied on sufficient amount of quality hoof wall to attach a shoe using nails. With the range of adhesives now available, it is possible to attach a variety of shoes to even the most damaged hooves.

Uses

• With conventional 'nailed-on shoes' there is a limit to the trimming and removal of unwanted hoof wall. Where there is the occasion for a remodeling of the hoof capsule, the limiting factor has always been 'can the farrier nail a shoe on after such work?'.
• The huge benefit of gluing is the degree to which any damaged or weak hoof wall can be removed. This is especially true to the range of 'cuffed' glue-on shoes where any damaged hoof wall can be removed and void between the cuff and the remaining hoof wall can be filled with adhesive at the same time as the shoe is applied.

Advantages

• In the majority of cases a deformed foot can be trimmed to a more desirable shape.
• One reason for misshapen feet is in no small part due to the necessity of shaping the shoe to the (distorted) shape of the foot to enable safe nailing. Gluing shoes, as opposed to nailing, removes this necessity.

Disadvantages

• Knowledge of adhesives is required.
• The extensive range of glue-on shoes now available makes it sometimes confusing in selecting the most appropriate.

Technical problems

• Adhesives require clean dry conditions for best results; this is sometimes difficult in the field or where there is a lack of clean dry conditions.
• Electrical supply in order to use 'hot air guns' is required when dealing with wet and/or cold feet.
• Attention must be given to the storage of adhesives.

Alternative techniques

• All glue-on shoes have a material other than metal that is in direct contact with the sole/hoof wall. In some cases a metal shoe is encased in urethane (Pro-Glu, Soundhorse, Thoro'bred) which provides a degree of cushioning which can, in some instances, make a huge difference to the horses' soundness.
• It is possible, and indeed is common practice, for regular horseshoes, usually aluminum, to be glued directly to the foot (sole gluing). In such instances, it is advisable to attach 'spacers' to the foot surface of the shoe to allow for a thickness of glue. If this is not done and the held firmly in place during curing, it is possible to have an adhesion failure due to insufficient adhesive. These 'spacers' are usually 2 mm thick and are placed at intervals around the shoe.
• All of the glue-on horseshoes covered in this article will have their own particular set of instructions and tips. In many cases this is due to the nature of their particular use. However, certain common facts apply to all of these shoes and to all of the adhesives:
  • Read all instructions.
  • Note their storage requirements, especially prior to use.
  • Shelf-life.
  • Working temperature: in relation to cure and set time.
  • Working time: how long do you have before the glue sets.
  • Full cure time.
  • Surface preparation: use of degreaser usually not acetone.
  • Curing adhesives create heat: ensure there is sufficient thickness of hoof wall to protect underlying structures.